This is among the lightest in color of Williams Selyem’s ‘05 Pinots, and also the most delicate in texture. But yields were very low, and the wine has a fantastically concentrated taste of wild raspberries, as well as crisp, stimulating acidity. Despite the elegance, it’s enormously complex, with tiers of oak-influenced cola, herb tea, pomegranate, vanilla and Asian spice flavors. Gorgeous now, this very great Pinot should develop well in the bottle over the next decade.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 97