The outstanding, dark ruby-tinged 2003 Pinot Noir Precious Mountain possesses copious quantities of red fruits (pomegranates and red currants) in addition to spice box and apple skins. A high acid profile, minerality, and subtle oak are also found in this tangy, but concentrated 2003. It should drink well for a decade. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

The outstanding, dark ruby-tinged 2003 Pinot Noir Precious Mountain possesses copious quantities of red fruits (pomegranates and red currants) in addition to spice box and apple skins. A high acid profile, minerality, and subtle oak are also found in this tangy, but concentrated 2003. It should drink well for a decade. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Williams Selyem’s priciest Pinot is an acidic, tannic wine in extreme youth. It’s fruity and dry, showing great depth, balance and complexity. There’s a wealth of deep, unexpressed cherry, cranberry, cola, tobacco, cocoa and sweet oak flavors. Something rich, like duck or a fine steak, will finesse the tannins, but you can also lay this wine down for a good five years, if not longer.——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 93