As for the dark plum/ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Precious Mountain, this has a nice, sweet berry nose intermixed with raspberry, plum, and autumn foliage. Complex aromatics are followed by a medium-bodied wine but, again, rather noticeable acidity seems to tighten the wine down and make it very difficult to penetrate its flesh. This wine should age nicely and should turn out well. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This is always one of Williams Selyems’ best Pinots, and the ’04 is a fabulous wine. The grapes got real ripe up there in the coastal mountains, producing complex blackberry, cherry, cola, rhubarb, pomegranate and spice flavors, but the cool nights preserved vital acidity, and that makes for a rich balance. The wine never gives up its basically silky, elegant mouthfeel. So savory and delicious now, it’s hard to pass up, but this wine should improve for six years. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 96