The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes includes 40% whole bunch fruit this year. In some ways, it has a more conservative bouquet than the les Carelles or the Caillerets. Thomas said that he once vowed never to add whole bunch fruit, but he decided to do so this year and feels that it adds freshness, a bit of light to the dark. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannin. More saline than its peers, this has a mouth-sapping intensity with great linearity and focus towards the sustained finish. Once those aromatics open, this will be a serious Volnay for long-term aging.