The powerful, atypical, oaky 1990 Volnay-Clos des Chenes, with its thick, chewy, tannic flavors, is impressively full. At present, it does lack finesse and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2007. Readers who admire intensely concentrated, big, tannic, oaky wines will probably rate Bouley's 1990s higher. He is aiming for maximum extraction as well as a gutsy style of Pinot Noir, perhaps at the expense of charm and finesse. A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin - various importers.
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