I find the 2007 vintage to be one of the most distinctive vintages in the past two decades, and Cristia's 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape has the classic incense, lavender, flowers and spice characteristics of the vintage in spades. Full-bodied, decadent, layered and sexy, it's one seriously hedonistic wine that has no hard edges, a full, ripe mid-palate and a great finish.

The dense ruby/purple 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape (90% Grenache and 10% Syrah) is very sexy and rich, with a beautiful nose of blueberry, blackberry, charcoal, and tapenade. Fabulously concentrated, with silky tannins and a layered, rich mouthfeel, this stunning effort is already irresistible, and should drink well for a decade or more. Domaine de Cristia has come on like gangbusters over the last decade, since proprietors Baptiste Grangeon took over from his father in 1999. All of Cristia’s vineyards are in the northeast sector of the appellation, with their sensational 100% Grenache Vieilles Vignes cuvee coming from 70- to 80-year-old vines in sandy soil not far from the Rayas vineyard. They apparently only made one cuvee in 2008, a normal occurrence in Chateauneuf du Pape given that vintage is average to just above-average in quality.Importers: Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA; tel. 800-331-2829; ABC Fine Wines and Spirits, Orlando, FL; tel. (407) 851-0000, Vinotech LLC, New England, info@vinotechimports.com, and J A O Wine Imports, McLean, VA; tel. (703) 848-2473