The regular 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape is a beauty. Dense ruby/purple to the rim with a knock-out nose of sweet black cherries intermixed with licorice, smoke, camphor, roasted meat, and flowers, the wine is full-bodied and intense. It should drink well for 10-15 years. If you haven’t figured it out yet, this is one of the up-and coming new superstar producers in Chateauneuf du Pape thanks to the inspired efforts of proprietors Alain and Baptiste Grangeon. The style here seems to be a synthesis of old-line tradition with their emphasis on ancient Grenache vines and a healthy respect for modernist techniques, utilizing newer and smaller oak barrels for the Mourvedre and Syrah components, but aging the Grenache in older wood.Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

The first vintage where they produced all three cuvees (Tradition, Renaissance and Vieilles Vignes), the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape sports a youthful ruby/plum color to go with classic dark fruits, crushed violets and peppery herbs. Medium-bodied, balanced, fresh and textbook, drink it over the coming couple of years.

Starts off with slightly high-toned, red-fruit aromas--and the flavors stay true to that throughout, leaning heavily on cherries with some spice notes for complexity. It's smooth and not overly rich; nicely balanced in an elegant style; fresh and not too tannic. Drink now-2012.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 91