The 2006 Los Cantos de Torremilanos is 100% Tempranillo aged for 13 months in one-third new French oak. Purple-colored, its nose reveals wood smoke, lavender, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Firm and structured on the palate with an elegant personality, this lengthy effort will evolve for another 2-3 years and drink well through 2021. Importer: Aurelio Cabastrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; www.grapesofspain.com

Not run-of-the-mill on the bouquet, where floral notes dance with dark fruit aromas, shoe polish and oil. The palate is more closed and choppy than ideal, with a gritty mouthfeel, ribald tannins and a closed palate that is focused but short. Not an overly generous wine, but it does walk the straight and narrow on its way to an honest ending.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 87