The 2006 Barolo Cerequio from Contratto offers up sweet red fruit, spices and generous French oak. There is terrific density and depth to the fruit all the way through to the round finish. Cerequio is one of the very finest vineyards in Italy, a Grand Cru among Grand Crus, but there is little of that personality to be found here, which is a shame, to put it mildly. That said, when the raw materials are this good, it is virtually impossible to make a bad wine. There is little doubt in my mind Contratto’s Cerequio could be a much more important Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725
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