Boillot's 2006 Volnay Les Caillerets smells deliciously of cherry jam and kirsch distillate, clove, cinnamon, and candied orange peel. A correspondingly zesty, pungently spicy, and sweetly-fruited palate takes on depth by way of chalky, stony mineral suggestions which – like the wine's tanninity – do not turn it in an austere direction thanks to the sheer juiciness of fruit than persists with lip-smacking abundance in the finish. This will be a delight to enjoy young but should, I suspect (not yet having experience at this estate), be worth following for the better part of a decade. Pierre Boillot (grandson of Lucien) vinified and marketed together until 2003 with his slightly older brother Louis (who now shares facilities with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, and most of the same appellations as Pierre, and on whose outstanding wines I reported in issue 170 and again in this issue). They then separated their shares of inheritance, which include equally prime acreage in both Cotes, thanks to Lucien having long ago left his family's Volnay estate (now Domaine Henri Boillot) to stake his own claim in Gevrey. My first visit to taste here convinced me that this address and Pierre Boillot's talent should be known to all Burgundy lovers. Pierre Boillot lays great store by lees enrichment, never bottling before the second spring, and then without filtration.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524