Delas Freres’ white wine cuvees have improved immensely under the administration of Jacques Granges. The 2003 Condrieu La Galopine possesses abundant quantities of tropical fruit, a fragile constitution because of low acidity, and a decadent, fat personality. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

A ripe, soft wine, which has a pleasant touch of spicy wood. It is fat and full-bodied, with flavors of apricots and honey. Perhaps not as focused as Condrieu from a cooler vintage than 2003, it is likely to develop over 4-5 years. ——R.V.(2/1/2005)—— 86