Incorporating extensive estate holdings around Prehy, Beine, and the northern edge of the appellation, the Laroche 2006 Chablis Saint Martin displays lemon and Persian melon in a juicy, refined, refreshing context, but with subtle chalky, salty, and savory mineral nuances and a bright, attractively lean finish. It should prove versatile for at least the next 2-3 years. All of the Laroche crus are from domaine fruit, and most incorporate a small share of wine raised in barrel as well as a small portion blocked from undergoing malo-lactic transformation. Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye and proprietor Michel Laroche – who export 85% of their wines, and were Burgundy’s pioneers (along with Verget) in utilizing screw cap closures – are dedicated to the proposition that Chablis can be seductive and sensual while remaining true to its terroir, and they have proven this in bottle with their outstanding 2005 and 2006 collections. Importer: Remy-Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2244