Readers who are sick and tired of corked wines will be pleased to know that Domaine Laroche now uses screw-cap closures. Bursting from the glass with ripe, tangy pears and minerals, the 2004 Chablis Saint-Martin displays an easygoing, expressive character. Medium-bodied and fresh, its pretty personality is awash in smoky, flinty white fruits. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Note: This wine is produced by Domaine Laroche and is an estate bottling. Laroche also has a negociant arm, Maison Laroche. Importer: Remy-Amerique, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2201