The 2007 Pinot Noir Ridgecrest has an herbal component along with some gritty tannin. Slightly austere on the palate, it will require several years of cellaring to become more approachable. Chehalem produces a bevy of value priced white wines, many of which are reviewed in Issue 184 on the erobertparker.com website.Tel. (503) 538-9396; www.chehalemwines.com

Those who seek elegance and lower alcohol levels will certainly want to try this beautifully balanced, well-defined vineyard designate from Chehalem. Briary, dusty, with currant and berry fruits, it has less concentration than in warmer years, but compensates with impeccable balance. The alcohol is listed at just 12.8%.——P.G.(12/15/2009)—— 90