The 2006 Pinot Noir Ridgecrest Vineyard is dark ruby-colored with aromas of pain grille, damp earth, Asian spices, cherry, and raspberry. On the palate the wine is medium- to full-bodied, layered, and has some underlying structure. Ripe, savory, and well-balanced, this lengthy wine will develop for another 1-2 years and provide pleasure through 2016. Chehalem Winery produces a bevy of white wines that should not be overlooked by consumers, particularly in the 2007 vintage. The vibrant natural acidity gives the wines an extra lift especially for Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling. Tel. (503) 538-9396www.chehalemwines.com

Scents of cracker, spice and root beer and flavors of malted milk chocolate and other softly appealing notes lead into surprisingly sharp, well-defined sour cherry and plum fruit, augmented with spice and black pepper. Distinctive among the winery’s single-vineyard lineup, it shows that old vines, cropped down below two tons/acre as they are here, bring extra dimensions to the finished wine.——P.G.(2/1/2009)—— 92