Grasso's 2003 Barolo Pi Vigne is one of the firmer, fresher La Morra Barolo normales in this vintage. It reveals flowers, herbs and spices along with a vibrant core of dark cherries, showing excellent length as well as balance. Another year of bottle age should help the wine come together a little more. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Federico Grasso is a small artisan grower based in La Morra. The estate's Barolos are among my favorite wines for near-term drinking in most vintages. However, these 2003s show an uneven level of quality which is typical of the vintage. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411