Not so with the 2006 Pinot Noir Cuvee Alyce, made from Dijon clones 777 and 115. This wine, which comes from their lowest yielding block, has an extra level of concentration. Dark ruby/plum-colored, with plenty of pomegranate, plum, sweet raspberry and black cherry notes as well as forest floor and underbrush components, the wine is not as impressive as it was from barrel, but it is still one of the top successes of the vintage for Russian River Pinot Noir. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This is a source for very fine Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs at some of the most realistic prices to be found in Northern California. Like several producers in the Russian River, the 2006s out of bottle from Walter Hansel Winery seem to be evolving quickly and, by-and-large, are slightly less impressive than they were at the beginning of their lives. Nevertheless, the good producers have achieved noteworthy success in this vintage, and certainly Stephen Hansel should be proud of what he’s been able to accomplish in that vintage. Moreover, the 2007s look to be a return to the brilliant quality of the wines produced here in 2005 and 2004. Tasting through barrel samples of all the 2007 Pinot Noirs, this looks to be a superb vintage for Stephen Hansel. Yields were very small, averaging about 1.5 tons of fruit per acre, so these wines reflect a level of concentration, but with the overt fragrance and good acidity that the cool growing season provided.Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310
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