The tight, tannic 2003 Pinot Noir Cuvee Alyce (285 cases made from Dijon clone 777) was cropped at .7 tons of fruit per acre. Its saturated ruby/purple color is accompanied by a distinctive crushed rock, sassafras, Asian spice, raspberry, and cherry-scented perfume. Big and rich, with high levels of acidity giving it a leaner, more austere style than its siblings, it should drink well for 5-8 years. One of northern California’s “good guys” is undeniably Stephen Hansel, who fashions top-quality Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Tom Rochioli first brought these wines to my attention, and Hansel is now one of my reference point visits in the North Coast. Known locally as a major car dealer, Hansel founded the winery in 1978 and now owns over 80 acres under vine. These are all noteworthy cuvees that remain somewhat under the radar. Moreover, prices remain unbelievably fair for wines of such quality. Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310