The 2003 Barolo Vigna Rionda is the newest addition to the estate’s line-up. Barolo lovers are well aware that Vigna Rionda is one of the most legendary sites in wine, so a new label is sure to elicit a high level of interest. Roagna’s Vigna Rionda is made from the oldest and most historic part of the hill, the same plots that were the source of the most legendary Riondas made in the past. Roagna’s 2003 Barolo Vigna Rionda opens with the essence of rose petals followed by gorgeous layers of red cherries, baking spices, cocoa, leather, menthol and licorice. At once delicate and powerful, it captures the essence of this famed site with remarkable elegance considering the less-than-ideal quality of the vintage. The 2003 Rionda saw a shorter period of oak aging than is typical for the estate’s other Barolos and I can’t help thinking that has helped maintain an additional level of vibrancy here. This is a promising Barolo, and it will be fascinating to see what Roagna can do in less extreme vintages. For now, it is an auspicious debut. Barolo is never inexpensive, but this wine offers superb value for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.
Luca Roagna is one of the most promising young winemakers in the Langhe. Low yields, late harvests, long macerations and extended periods of oak aging are the rule at this traditionally-minded estate. Historically Barolo and Barbaresco were left to macerate on the skins until around the Christmas holidays, a practice unheard of today but still followed here. The normal bottlings of Barolo and Barbaresco typically see around 50 days of maceration while the selections may see as many as 75 days. The wines then undergo a lengthy sojourn in oak which allows them to develop the tertiary notes that the estate seeks. The wines spend an additional year to year and a half of bottle age before being released. I have mixed feelings about the long oak aging the estate prefers. In some cases the wines have the stuffing to stand up to extended periods in oak, but in other cases I can't help thinking the wines would retain more fruit and freshness if they were bottled earlier. The wines are also very delicate and don't respond well to sudden movement or temperature changes immediately prior to serving. I have had my best luck letting them gradually warm from cold cellar temperature and opening them several hours before serving. Readers who appreciated traditionally made wines should be sure to put Roagna on their radar screens.
Importer: Louis Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191
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