The 1998 Barolo Arborina is a sexy, in-your-face, dark ruby/garnet-colored offering with a big, sweet perfume of soy, nori (the seaweed wrapped around sushi dishes), ripe black cherry fruit, and smoky oak. Rich, full, fat, opulent, and decadent, it is meant to be drunk now and over the next 8-10 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411