The 2011 L.Z. is fermented and aged in cement and includes seasonings of Garnacha and white varieties such as Viura and Malvasia. It offers red currant and pomegranate mixed with clay-like aromas that unfurl teasingly with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with crisp, taut tannins. There is a core of raspberry leaf, citrus peel, chalk and dried orange peel that lead to an electrifying, tense finish. This is a fine entry-level wine. Drink now-2016+ As well as visiting his family estate of Remelluri, I made a brief visit to Telmo Rodriguez’s minuscule, antediluvian winery in the village of Lanciego. It reminded me of setting foot in some of Burgundy’s more artisan domaines: cramped conditions, ancient cobwebbed walls, the acrid tang of mold and decades of winemaking. Telmo mentioned that authorities had tried to persuade him to at least concrete the floor, but he refuses, not wishing to tamper with the authenticity of the winery. I tasted wines from foudres that I will review once bottled. For now, I will concentrate upon those that are already in bottle, because they are spectacular. Telmo sees Altos de Lanzaga as the equivalent of a “premier cru” in Burgundy, sourced from 35-year-old vine grown on red soil that is fermented in cement vats and aged in foudres and casks. His aim is to find the character of the village of his vines within the ambit of Lanciego. Importer: Michael Quintus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; www.vintuswines.com