The consummate 2009 Meursault Villages has a beautifully poised bouquet infused with grass clippings, Cornice pear and Granny Smith apples. The palate is well-balanced, neutral on the entry but then fanning out with precocious vanilla-tinged, citrus fruit. One could argue that it expresses the winemaking more than a terroir, but that does not detract from a finely crafted Meursault. Drink now-2018.