Those who feel all Chambolles should be gracefully elegant and delicate ballerinas should stay away from Mortet’s 2003 Chambolle-Musigny Beaux Bruns, unless they’re willing to get their heads out of the sand and actually learn something about this multifaceted commune’s terroir. Its bold aromatics burst with mocha-drenched black fruits. Medium to full-bodied and softly-textured, this plump (yet surprisingly fresh) offering has huge richness and breadth. Its satiny personality is filled with a jammy mass of dark fruit flavors. Drink this forward wine over the next 6-7 years. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400