Made with organically farmed grapes, the Podere Sapaio 2017 Bolgheri Rosso Volpolo is a softly pliant and charming wine. The Volpolo is Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot and Petit Verdot from a gem of an estate that works hard to deliver on the promise of the great Bolgheri appellation. From a warm and dry vintage, this wine is remarkably seamless in terms of its aromatic delivery, with blackberry and plum that cede slowly to smoke, tar and spice. There is some dryness or astringency that comes with the tannins, and this is something I noticed across the vintage. That said, Tuscan red wine enthusiasts get good value in this release of 83,000 bottles.
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