This is one of the standouts in this retrospective from Podere Sapaio. The 2009 Bolgheri Rosso Volpolo is a firm and muscular wine with solid structure and a tight core of intact black fruit. This is a very vibrant effort that chugs forward like a little train, with long flavors on the finish that culminate with smoke and savory spice.

Here’s a knockout blend from coastal Tuscany (with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot) that opens with inky, dark concentration and lavish aromas of chocolate, black cherry, rum cake and Indian spice. It’s soft, plush and extra rich. ——M.L.(2/1/2012)—— 92