Here is another well-aged back vintage from Podere Sapaio. The 2005 Bolgheri Rosso Volpolo shows a timid personality, coming from vines planted in 2000, so they were only five years old at the time of the harvest. The mouthfeel is solid, but I think the nose is a little closed. Among the three vintages starting with this one, I preferred the 2007.

Volpolo is a big, ripe, succulent wine with ripe fruit and a broad approach. It delivers tones of black cherry, currant berry and spice over a tightly knit structure. You could call it a comfort wine because it is easy and satisfying.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 90