A 2007 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett represents the latest in a long-running series of impressive Kesselstatt renditions of this famous site. Scents of pink grapefruit and black currant could be from Scheurebe. A refreshing, subtly oily palate displays well-judged and unobtrusive sweetness that simply places the fruit in high relief, while making possible a wine of low alcohol and delicacy. This might not be the most complex expression of its site, but there will be more nuances in time; and it certainly will reward 15 or more years of cellaring, especially for those who, like me, prefer Mosel Kabinett after any extraneous sweetness has backed off. A protracted harvest is almost bound to be especially beneficial for an estate with such enormous and widely-scattered vine acreage as that of von Kesselstatt. The acidity in this year’s collection is almost uniformly ripe, and often noticeably low. As usual, a certain austerity accrues to a fair share of Kesslestatt’s many trocken Rieslings (wines from whose labels the last vestiges of Pradikat designations have now disappeared), but happily, alcoholic heat was scarcely a problem here this year. Interestingly, the Saar wines among these were generally especially successful regardless of style. Annegret Reh’s plan in the Kabinett segment, incidentally, is to eventually eliminate the redundancy of having both feinherb (successors to former halbtrocken) and unabashedly sweet bottlings from a single site, but instead work in the direction of merely discreet – i.e. feinherb – sweetness for most of the estate’s Kabinetts. In a sweet style, the Kesselstatt Kabinetts have consistently represented excellent values with ready market-availability, whereas few of the drier Kabinetts (and virtually none of the estate’s trocken Rieslings) seem to make it to the U.S. Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel (918) 622-0424.

This is unevolved, revealing hints of floral and black currant aromas and flavors, but also yeast and carbonic gas elements. Yet it's vibrant and juicy, with a lingering finish. Best from 2009 through 2022. 2,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Seems almost confectionary in its bold, fruit-driven aromas of spring flowers, strawberries and lime, but picks up greater minerality and some petrol notes on the slightly creamy-texture palate. Long and fruit-driven on the finish. ——J.C.(10/1/2009)—— 89