The 2004 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett represents a single 2,000-case bottling. Smelling enticingly of white grapefruit, lime, and black currant, in the mouth it is like the alter-ego of the Josephshofer: all brisk and luscious fruit acidity and citrus. For a wine this clear and invigorating, one is willing to sacrifice cuddly creaminess. The finish positively shimmers, with abundant grapefruit and black fruits, in a dynamic exchange with salts and slate. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.