Pineapple, mango, and grapefruit mark the effusive nose of Kesselstatt's 2006 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett. Generous, juicy fruit, nut oils, and distinct notes of slate inform a creamy, luscious palate that is almost too viscous and rich for Kabinett, but I would not complain. The finish is quite sweet, but a model of sappy fruit generosity and deft integration of subtle, pure botrytis. One could cellar this long enough to witness the sweetness backing off a bit - certainly it will keep for 10-12 years at least - or one could wallow in its particular sort of sweet generosity now. -We organized early,- says Annegret Reh-Gartner, -and then harvested in two weeks what we usually harvest in four.- She felt her hand was forced on the Saar when many of their vineyards were hailed on September 30, but by the time the crew was mobilized the heavy rain of October 3 was upon them. Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424

This is immensely promising, offering scents of slate, slightly leesy notes, white peach and pineapple. But on the palate, the flavors aren’t quite as fresh, changing over to dried pineapple and golden raisin, and while the mouthfeel is rich and sweet upfront, the wine seems to dry up a bit on the finish, where it shows a touch of bitterness. Probably best to drink it young.——J.C.(6/1/2008)—— 88