Grivot’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Charmois (from steep slopes just west of town) smells of strawberries, nut oils and marrow. Bright and lithe on the palate, with persistent red fruit and nutty themes that lend subtle tartness and bitterness, this may be somewhat dampened-down in finish due to its recent racking. Etienne Grivot aimed this year for gentle extraction (essentially without pigeage), then watchful preservation of the freshness, subtleties and refinement inherent in near-perfect raw material. He performed some very light chaptalization to extend the fermentations. Given the health and natural concentration of his vinous raw material, he felt no need to sulfur or rack the wines until shortly prior to bottling (without filtration), which was the stage at which I tasted. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.