This dark-colored wine reveals a nose of perfume, violets, and black currants as well as a delightfully supple, medium-bodied, red currant, and cassis-flavored character. This is a simple, yet immensely pleasing wine, that will provide early drinking. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Note: This wine had finished its malo-lactic fermentation in September, 1997, and had been racked and sulphured two weeks before my visit. This process can have the effect of temporarily drying out the fruit and decreasing the intensity of color in wines. If anything, it will become darker, have more body, and be lusher than my notes would suggest. "The most important thing for me is harmony. I don't want hard and tannic wines. Those that are too tannic will never be good." So stated Etienne Grivot, the tall, intelligent, Basset Hound-eyed, and youngish man in charge of the domaine that bears his father's name. This estate produces some of Burgundy's finest wines, and consumers need to search them out before their prices reflect their quality. Importer: Chateaux and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; Tel; (212) 572-7725.