The dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Crozes-Hermitage is Graillot's finest cuvee since 1990. It offers a striking perfume of smoke, earth, Provencal herbs, bacon fat, and black currants. Excellent purity and medium body are displayed in a concentrated, structured, well-focused style. Give this 1999 another 1-2 years of cellaring and enjoy it over the following 12 years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

The dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Crozes-Hermitage is Graillot's finest cuvee since 1990. It offers a striking perfume of smoke, earth, Provencal herbs, bacon fat, and black currants. Excellent purity and medium body are displayed in a concentrated, structured, well-focused style. Give this 1999 another 1-2 years of cellaring and enjoy it over the following 12 years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

A hands-down favorite from this tasting, the Graillot shows black fruit, cocoa, bacon, cumin and fruitcake on the nose. In the mouth, it’s medium-weight with a chewy mouthfeel, and has sexy, smoldering smoked-bacon, blueberry and white-pepper flavors. Its long, smoky finish with tangy tannins is something we look forward to experiencing many times between now and 2010. Cellar Selection.——W.E.(10/1/2001)—— 89