The Boillot 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles displays impressive grip and stony, saline minerality and soy-like savor to set off its dense, fresh black fruit. Hints of grenadine and animal blood add further complexity. There is some real tongue-tingling, vibratory intensity in this handsome Gevrey, yet another example of the premier cru-like quality of its site. It should be worth following for the better part of a decade. Pierre Boillot - Lucien's grandson, for details on whose history, properties, and connection with other Boillots, see issues and 186 and 170 - noted that his Cote de Beaune fruit required more rigorous sorting in 2008 than did that from the Cote de Nuits, and the former resulted in several wines of relatively aggressive astringency. I tasted his 2008s prior to their March and April bottlings, and (except where noted) assembled from tank. (Unfortunately, shortage of time kept me from tasting Boillot's 2007s.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524