From four terraces high above Gevrey and Brochon, Boillot’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles fields aromas of roasted, charred meat, black pepper, bitter-sweet black cherry and blackberry. Ripe, concentrated black fruits and fine-grained tannins saturate the palate and surge into a long, gripping finish with stony, meaty bass notes and a glowing ripe fruit intensity. This outstanding Pinot should be worthy of 10-12 years aging. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.