The 2008 Victorino went through malolactic in new French oak followed by 18 months of aging in new barrels. Dense purple in color, it displays an already complex bouquet of Asian spices, sandalwood, leather, balsamic, and brooding black fruits. Dense and backward on the palate but well-balanced, it mandates a minimum of 5-7 years of cellaring. It will provide prime drinking from 2017 to 2028. Bodegas Teso La Monja’s wines are made from 100% Tinta de Toro. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; Tel. (781) 461-5767

Svelte and lively, this polished red delivers toast, cola and espresso notes that frame a ripe yet lively core of black cherry, licorice and mineral flavors. A modern style, balanced and alluring. Drink now through 2016. 350 cases imported. -TM

Smoky and big on the bouquet, with black fruit galore, shoe polish, peppercorn and chocolate aromas. Intense and tannic but layered and deep, with a granite body and dark, ripe flavors of blackberry, fig, spice and chocolate. Huge, toasted and modern in every way. ——M.S.(11/1/2011)—— 92