The 2004 Barolo Bricco Boschis Riserva Vignolo explodes from the glass with tons of super-ripe, perfumed red cherries, roses and spices. Sweet, silky tannins frame a long, utterly exquisite finish. The wine reveals compelling inner sweetness and a level of pure finesse that is the hallmark of this great vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Cavallotto may very well be the greatest Barolo producer few people have ever heard of, something that continues to mystify me. Truth is, it isn’t just the Barolos here that are impressive, the entry-level wines are every bit as delicious and well-priced. As always, Cavallotto is among the last producers to bottle, and all of these wines were sampled from tank. Readers who appreciate a firm, classic style of Barolo will want to spend some time getting to know Cavallotto.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119