The 1989 Barolo Riserva Vignolo offers up a very classic profile of dried cherries, flowers, tobacco, autumn leaves and menthol. There is a delicate, almost fragile quality I find quite attractive here. The finish is firm and long, with slight notes of volatile acidity becoming more apparent on the close. This is a pretty, if somewhat rustic, Barolo from Cavallotto. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Cavallotto is experiencing a much-deserved resurgence in popularity, but the truth is that the wines have been outstanding for many years. The estate has recently re-released a number of their older vintages at prices that are exceedingly fair considering the quality and provenance of the wines. Cavallotto works with two vineyards, both in Castiglione Falletto, for their Riservas. Vignolo generally yields perfumed, elegant, feminine Barolos, while the San Giuseppe parcel in the family’s near-monopole Bricco Boschis typically produces a firmer, darker and sturdier Barolo. Vinification and aging are traditional; in fact Cavallotto is among the last producers to bottle and release their Barolos. Readers curious to learn more about other vintages may want to check out my notes on www.erobertparker.com
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