Domaine Patrick & Christophe Bonnefond Cote Rotie Les Rochains, Rhone, France

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The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2003 Cote Rotie Les Rochains (a 2.78-acre vineyard) is a floral, bacon fat, litchi nut, black raspberry, and blackberry-filled effort. Opulent, rich, and slightly less tannic and backward than the 2003 Cote Rozier, it is an enormously-endowed, exemplary example of Cote Rotie from an extreme vintage. Well-balanced and incredibly pure, it is one for anthology. Give it 2-4 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following two decades. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897, and Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520