The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva is pure silk and elegance from start to finish. Violets, flowers and sweet Pinot-like fruit meld together in this sensual, mid-weight Barbaresco. The 2008 boasts striking inner perfume, great textural richness and fabulous depth, all backed by silky, polished tannins. It is as impressive in bottle as the separate components were when I tasted them from barrel as young wines. Sottimano’s Riserva is an old-vines bottling from Cotta and Pajore. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.
I can’t say enough good things about the Sottimano family and the work they have done over the years to firmly establish themselves among Barbaresco’s top growers. This is one of the few places in Piedmont where every wine is consistently delicious. The only question is how delicious. In recent years, Andrea Sottimano has worked to give his Barbareschi extended time on the lees in a cold cellar, which also slows down the malos. This distinctly Burgundian approach stands in stark contrast to the way most French oak-aged wines are made in Piedmont, where malos typically follow right after the alcoholic fermentations. I tasted the 2010s just after they were bottled. Readers should take these notes as brief impressions on wines that will continue to come to life with further time in bottle.
Various American importers, including Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343
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