This series of 2004 Barbarescos closes with the estate’s newest wine, the 2004 Barbaresco Riserva. Made from a selection of old vines in Pajore and Cotta vineyards, this rich, weighty Barbaresco is bursting with aromatics and layers of old-vine fruit, smoke, tar and licorice. Despite its size, it remains beautifully focused and proportioned. To be released in 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.
From top to bottom, this is an impressive set of wines from Sottimano, a property that continues its rapid ascent into the top echelon of the region's finest estates. Andrea Sottimano's wines have always been about potential but with his 2004s he has produced the first of what will hopefully be many important vintages. Sottimano loves Burgundy and his 2004 Barbarescos are clearly informed by the passion he has for those wines. In 2004 there is also a Barbaresco Riserva from the oldest vines at Pajorè and Cottà, but that wine won't see the light of day until next year at the earliest. It is a special wine that will be well worth the wait. In the meantime there is no shortage of outstanding offerings from which to choose. Over the last few vintages the estate has reduced the level of new oak and improved the quality of its cooperage, both of which have given the wines greater transparency. After alcoholic fermentation the wines are racked into French oak barrels (25% new) for the malolactic fermentations which are kept long, as Sottimano believes this gives the wines greater richness and complexity. Once the malos are finished, the wines are racked into used barrels where they continue to age prior to being assembled and bottled.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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