The 2016 Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens contains 30% whole-bunch fruit this year, less than the Volnay Caillerets. It is much more backward, reticent on the nose by comparison, tightly wound with attractive undergrowth scents interwoven into the dusky black fruit. It gradually opens but never pulls out the throttle. The palate is very well balanced with a fleshy, silky-textured opening. The stem addition is just right—lending freshness and yet never dominating the flavors, while the finish is very focused with a tang of soy on the aftertaste that urges you to return and take another sip. Excellent. This is a Pommard that should mature well over the next decade and drink over two.
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