Stewed, rich black fruits laced with Szechuan pepper, peat, and iron filings characterize the Glantenay 2007 Pommard Rugiens. A rich chocolate note common to several 2007s from this cellar gains prominence as the wine launches into its long finish, and that extra richness is especially welcome inasmuch as none of the other Glantenay 2007s I tasted displayed such prominent tannins. I am cautiously optimistic about this being worth following for 6-8 years or longer, but one should pay close attention to its evolution.
Young Thierry Glantenay – whom I met for the first time this March – has the luck to have inherited old vines acquired or planted by his grandfather in some of the most prestigious sites of Volnay, Pommard, and Puligny, and is applying to them evident care and intelligence, given which facts it isn’t surprising – even though it was news to me – that his cellar is a superb source of Burgundy. Glantenay’s finished 2008s are in the low-13s of alcoholic percentage, having for the most part been boosted by one-half to one degree. All of them were in tank when I tasted, and none were due to be filtered at bottling, although the village Volnay, Caillerets, and Rugiens had been lightly “pre-filtered” to deal with what Glantenay deemed excess turbidity.
Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville , PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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