From barrel, Thierry Glantenay's 2015 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens was one of the most powerful wines in the cellar, with considerable texture and dimension, but it has taken a while to come together after bottling. This was its best showing yet, confirming the promise it revealed on both occasions when I tasted it from cask. Offering up aromas of cherries, ripe red berries, rich spices and subtle hints of forest floor, this Rugiens is an ample, full-bodied wine, but it's wonderfully satiny and succulent, with a juicy—even tangy—core of fruit that's beautifully delineated and mouthwatering. This has all the amplitude and dimension you'd expect from an old-vine Rugiens, but it's deceptively structurally elegant, without any of the chewy rusticity commonly associated with Pommard. It's a great wine and may end up rivaling Glantenay's superb Volnay Clos des Chênes in the fullness of time.
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