From vines planted in the ‘30s, Glantenay’s 2008 Pommard Rugiens combines chocolaty richness with the diverse, fresh, ripe black fruits that typified most of his 2008 collection. A sensation of bright seeds and tart berry skin lends invigoration and hence contrast to the wine’s viscosity and mouth-coating breadth. The tannins here are exceptionally refined though abundant, and impressions of peat, Latakia tobacco, and Szechuan pepper lend site-typical smokiness to a long finish. Here is another candidate at this address for 15 or more years of cellaring, as well as a wine I would be inclined to forget for 5-7 years before even re-visiting.
Young Thierry Glantenay – whom I met for the first time this March – has the luck to have inherited old vines acquired or planted by his grandfather in some of the most prestigious sites of Volnay, Pommard, and Puligny, and is applying to them evident care and intelligence, given which facts it isn’t surprising – even though it was news to me – that his cellar is a superb source of Burgundy. Glantenay’s finished 2008s are in the low-13s of alcoholic percentage, having for the most part been boosted by one-half to one degree. All of them were in tank when I tasted, and none were due to be filtered at bottling, although the village Volnay, Caillerets, and Rugiens had been lightly “pre-filtered” to deal with what Glantenay deemed excess turbidity.
Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville , PA; tel. (610) 486-0800