The 2010 Santorini is Assyrtiko, of course, and it is a big, burly one, coming in at 14.2% alcohol (a jump over typical 13.5s and the listed 13.2 for the 2009, due to weather conditions explained in the accompanying article). Sigalas, on the back label, boldly recommends cellaring this for two years before consumption, not exactly typical for Greek whites. His wines certainly show very steely when young and age better than most, so take his recommendation to heart. For many of his wines, two years may not be enough, although that should work here. After decanting this, the wine showed a lot better, integrating its parts, showing fine fruit and an unusually ripe fruit flavor nuance that the 2009 did not have. It seemed quite delicious at times, but like many Santorinis it has an underlying hard edge to it in its youth. It came around fairly quickly and mostly handled its alcohol well, although, tasted next to the 2009, it seemed more obvious. Yet, just when I thought I had a handle on it - it changed again. This burly, ripe, somewhat hard-edged Santorini seems to be a bit different, but I believe that it has many virtues of its own. Despite some initial caution, I'm leaning up on it, but it will be interesting to see where it goes over the longer haul. Drink now-2021. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

The 2010 Asirtiko / Athiri (75% Assyrtiko, the rest Athiri, with the atypical spelling of Assyrtiko as a brand name on the label) is often the best value point in the Sigalas lineup, not that the "Santorini" (100% Assyrtiko and labeled just like that, per Greek appellation custom and rule) is particularly expensive for the high quality. This year, it is another fine value, with the wine showing youthful intensity and fine body. It's hard to go wrong here for the price. Although I'd give the clear edge to the 2009, this has plenty to recommend it (although note the alcohol spike from 12.8% on the 2009 to 14.2% here). A bit mouth-puckering at the moment, with a touch of earthiness, it should come around nicely. It seemed to handle the alcohol well. Drink now-2015. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

Juicy and rich, with concentrated pear, apple and white fruit flavors that are backed up by plenty of fresh acidity. The intense finish features mineral notes, joined by sea salt and white pepper. Should turn creamy with time in the cellar. Drink now through 2020. 7,000 cases made.??–KM??Region: Greece / Santorini Select to Add

4 Sigalas sets the bar high for Assyrtiko as usual. This 2010 is a balance of rounded citrus, crisp sea salt and sparkling minerality. Delicious with grilled fish, fruit or alone on a hot day, this is an elegant gem of a white that represents some of the best of Greek wine offered today. ——S.K.(9/1/2011)—— 92