The 2000 ASSYRTIKO is lovely. While in Greece, I was presented with some five year old Assyrtikos that were oxidized as evidence of how well the grape could age. Oxidation, it was suggested, was inevitable. Perhaps such people should talk to Paris Sigalas, because here is a lovely wine, cool and refreshing, with almost mouth puckering acidity on the finish that gives it intensity and verve. It seems young still—there is not a hint of a problem. It might actually go longer, but let’s be conservative on the drinking window. Drink now-2013. I had probably my best tasting in Greece at this fine estate on Santorini. On Santorini, 80% of the ancient, pre-phylloxera vineyard area is planted with white grapes. All but 10% of that is Assyrtiko, and by law a Santorini appellation white must be at least 75% Assyrtiko. So, a winery here must master this difficult but very fine grape to succeed. Sigalas does, consistently producing superb Assyrtiko, either dry, steely and unoaked; or with oak (no small achievement), or in the sweet Vinsanto style. Some library wines are included to illustrate the winery’s track record and consistency. Granting that the weather on Santorini is often said to produce good vintages on a fairly consistent basis, this is still an impressive track record.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211
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