The 2009 Santorini adds depth to the 2009 Asirtiko/Athiri blend and quite a bit of power, too. As it interacts with the palate, it becomes ever more gripping and intense. I decanted it, and it seemed to just become more piercing still. Yet, underneath it has fine fruit that asserts itself and it seems transparent, stone washed and pure. Its steely demeanor is impressive, but that's not all it has. It may not show all it has for another year or three, though. The longer this was open, the more complexity it showed. As it warmed up, it became more gripping and showed more minerality. For a monovarietal white, its ability continually to keep changing and become something different was quite remarkable as it warmed up and aired out. Pretend that this is red and think about cellaring. It should age well if well stored and I'm more than a little curious myself to see what is going to be here in 2020. Just when you think you have a handle on it - it turns into something else interesting. I often find that is a characteristic common to top level young wines. Drink now-2023. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

The 2009 Asirtiko / Athiri (with the winery's atypical spelling of Assyrtiko as part of the brand name) is 75% Assyrtiko, the rest Athiri. While the style is different than the Sigalas' Santorini (which is labeled just with the appellation name and is 100% Assyrtiko), this is not always as far off of the Santorini as you might think and it is often more charming to drink when young, although not quite as ageworthy. This 2009 is a superb vintage of this inexpensive white. Steely, piercing and mouth gripping, it seems little different in this vintage than the Santorini in most vintages. It should age exceptionally well. A wine at this price level with this much intensity and minerality is a steal. With a touch of lemon on the finish and all that intensity, it takes awhile to come around, but it gradually evolves and shows better integration of fruit and acidity. At that point, it clearly seemed to have less depth and body than the 2009 Santorini, but it held its own pretty well. I came back to it an hour later - after decanting - and it was showing beautifully. Keeping in mind that it is already a year old or so and still remarkably intense, it should age beautifully. Bottled with synthetic cork (Nomacork) it is a wine that the winery says may age "more than 5 years," while noting that it is anticipated to be consumed in 3 in most cases. Five years is a lot for many Greek whites, not to mention those bottled with synthetic cork, but not a lot for Santorini or Sigalas Santorini. I think this one has the stuffing to hold better than most from this bottling. Hopefully it will. Drink now-2017. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211