The 2008 SANTORINI (100,000 bottles produced) is all Assyrtiko, and as usual, Sigalas has produced something that should age well. It has some steel and minerality and plenty of acid, yet simply beautiful balance. This never becomes shrill and it is fruity and full, despite its acidity. It is hard to decide between this and the ’07, which is somewhat fruitier, although the 2008 may age a bit better. Both are fine entries into this winery’s remarkably consistent track record. At this point in their respective development, I prefer the 2007, but this just might overtake it. The longer it was open, the better it got, the acidity and steely character asserting itself. Drink now-2017.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211

The 2008 ASIRTIKO / ATHIRI (the winery uses an alternative spelling here for Assyrtiko) is 75% Assyrtiko, the rest Athiri, just at the borderline to retain the Santorini appellation. Like its 2007 sibling, it is an excellent value point, even given that the Sigalas lineup is rather well priced, although the price has crept up a little. It is from a somewhat cooler and more aromatic year than 2007, the winemaker says. This is relatively full bodied for the style and grapes, beautifully balanced, with considerable charm. Graceful and elegant, it was relatively open and expansive when tasted in March, 2009; closer to singing in June, 2009. It might be even better in a few months. Drink now-2014. Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211

Clean, focused, structured. Very good and intense with good weight.