The late-released 2002 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Estate reveals licorice, smoke, camphor, and oak characteristics. This firmly-structured, smoky, black currant-scented and flavored wine is long, rich, and backward. Give it another 1-2 years of bottle age, and drink it over the next decade. Tel. (805) 688-2477

Built for the long haul, right now this wine isn’t showing its full potential. Instead it’s a mass of promise—of dense coffee, spice and black olive flavors waiting for some day in the future when they will blossom. They’re reined in tight right now, but the long finish of this wine plainly identifies its ultimate high quality. Try in 2010.——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 88