The 2005 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Estate boasts a complex bouquet of lead pencil shavings, creme de cassis, tar, camphor, and black fruits. This full-bodied Syrah possesses admirable acidity, a lovely texture, elegance, and overall harmony. It is a stylish, concentrated wine to consume over the next 8 to 10 years. One of my favorite Central Coast wineries appears to have struggled with ripeness in the challenging 2006 vintage. However, at the same time, Qupe has also produced some impressive cuvees. The leanest, most austere offerings include two of the single vineyard Syrahs. Tel. (805) 686-9699; Fax (805) 937-2539

Young and tannic, with nettle and thyme-infused blackberry and cedar flavors that are locked down with astringency. Very complex and earthy. Needs at least 4–6 years to blossom. Best after 2011.——S.H.(10/1/2009)—— 92